Portuguese Camino Day 4: São Pedro de Rates to Barcelos

I awoke in a soft comfy feeling refreshed and well-rested. It’s been a while since I’ve gotten to sleep in a room all by myself. I basked in the moment before eventually climbing out of bed and preparing for the day on the Portuguese Camino (Camino Portugués).

The previous afternoon, I hand washed some clothes in the sink. They weren’t quite dry yet so I draped them over the heater and cranked it up. By 9:30 am I was dressed in dry clothes and ready to go.

As I walked through the village of São Pedro de Rates, I looked around for a pastry or breakfast to-go. I eventually struck paydirt at the local BP gas station where I picked up a croissant and small cheese sandwich.

The Camino passes through these buildings as it leaves São Pedro de Rates

Vista of the countryside near São Pedro de Rates on a hazy morning

The trail doesn’t pass through the forest very often, but when it does it’s magical.

Parque Santiago Macieira de Rates

For most of the morning, I walked through gravel roads along forest tracks or through farmland.

One of the highlights was a little park with some picnic tables in a small grove of woods. The park was sandwiched between farms in the middle of nowhere.

A nice shady spot for a break – at Parque Santiago Macieira de Rates

Walking along country lanes near the park

The Portuguese countryside

Now that’s an impression trail sign!

Pedra Furada

For lunch I stopped at Restaurante Pedra Furada. The cafe is located right along the Camino in the small village of Pedra Furada.

They serve a hearty pilgrim’s meal with soup, an entree, beverage, and a coffee for only €7 ($8.10 USD). Yum!

The owner was happy to stamp my Credencial and insisted on taking a photo (with his phone). One of these days maybe I’ll remember to request a photo with *my* camera.

Hearty pilgrim’s lunch at Restaurante Pedra Furada

Caution! Pilgrims crossing! Sign near Pedra Furada.

Church at Pedra Furada

Carvalhal

Carvalhal is the last town along the Camino before the path reaches the twin cities of Barcelos and Barcelinhos.

The Carvalhal parochial church is located at an intersection where the Camino branches off the main road. Thankfully, yellow arrows are everywhere or I may have missed the turn.

Igreja Paroquial de São Paio de Carvalhal

Side of beef, anyone?

The countryside near Carvalhal

A lovely spot for a break. I had a nice little rest in this spot, which is about 1 km before Carvalhal.

Dinner at A Vicentina in Barcelos

Barcelinhos and Barcelos are twin cities located on either side of the Cávado River. They mark the end of the second stage along the Portuguese Camino.

I hadn’t made an advanced reservation but had no issue finding an affordable room at the BWay Guesthouse in Barcelinhos. Another night in a room all to myself! I even had a (partially obstructed) view of the river. Yay!

For dinner, I met Natalia Ilina at a restaurant across the river in Barcelos. Natalia was one of my roommates from when I stayed at the albergue a few nights ago. We are walking at a similar speed and keep running into each other.

So, we decided to meet up for a dinner of hearty Portuguese food.

I happened to walk across the bridge at sunset and caught some amazing photos on the way.

Bridge connecting Barcelinhos and Barcelos

Sunset from the bridge

My dinner!

Natalia Ilina enjoys some tasty dessert

A photo of Natalia Ilina taken earlier in the day when we happened to run into each other on the trail.

Portuguese Camino Stats

Date: Friday, October 8
Starting Location: Casa da Vila at São Pedro de Rates
Ending Location: BWay Guesthouse in Barcelinhos
Camino Distance Walked Today: 9.3 miles/ 15 km
Distance to Santiago: 115.7 miles/ 186.2 km

AllTrails Map Recording

Click here to view my map recording for today:

Portuguese Camino Day 4 on AllTrails

Note: the distance in this recording doesn’t match my Camino distance because it includes some off-route walking.

Stamps Collected Today

Restaurante Pedra Furada

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• Previous journal entry: Portuguese Camino Day 3: Hitting my Stride
• Next journal entry: Portuguese Camino Day 5: An Unexpected Stay at Casas do Rio

For more information about my pilgrimage along the Camino Portugués, visit my Portuguese Camino web page.